Sansho: Awesome. Which doesn’t equate to enthusiasm

Food & Drink
Dana a Alena | 17.04.2012
What we’ll remember about the service

It’s best put like this: we finished our main course ages ago and yet nobody is interested in taking any other order we might have. And yet there are enough waiters and waitresses floating around (dressed in chequered shirts, each different – perhaps the owner offers them the option of choosing). The style is clearly “casual”, though some of the staff are possibly excessively laid-back. For instance, one of them sums everything up with the one word “awesome.”  We finished our main course ages ago, and yet nobody is interested in taking any other orders we might have...

We had previously ordered wine from this waiter (incidentally, there are only two kinds of house wine and both are fairly expensive – Kč 80 for 1.5 dl of Müller), though he hadn’t backed up his recommendation with any arguments, but had simply said that most people drank Italian wine ... Finally (after a good half an hour) we beckon someone over ourselves.

One nostalgic reminiscence

We ordered dessert – Sticky Toffee Pudding (Kč 145). First impressions were somewhat disappointing. The woodland brown of the cake and sauce was more like steak. However, the first mouthful banished all doubts immediately. The super-sweet caramel carried a square of dense but succulent pastry containing plenty of dates. The title got it right. The dish was decidedly sticky. It was topped off by vanilla ice-cream. The result was a calorific bomb. If you love oriental desserts, you’ll love this. As far as we are concerned, British desserts made by Brits are not completely our cup of tea (they add twice as much sugar as is necessary and the result tends to be heartburn rather than any improvement to the flavour), but then each to their own...

We finished off with Grim Reaper coffee (first of all the milk failed to appear, and when it arrived it wasn’t hot), and then it was time to pay up. The bill came to Kč 880 for one starter, two main courses, one dessert, a glass of wine, one beer and two coffees. All in all we ate pretty well, though we weren’t euphoric over any of the dishes.

The restaurant concept is congenial and the good quality fresh ingredients to be welcomed. However, we had the feeling that Sansho was aimed mainly at masculine taste buds. It was no mere coincidence that male diners predominated. It’s difficult to compare the restaurant, since Sansho is a one-off. Perhaps it’s time for a nostalgic reminiscence. We agreed that we still really missed the sophisticated creations of Anglo-Indian inspiration (and especially the fresh aromatic spices) conjured up by the amazing Sofie Smith of the erstwhile Angel restaurant. So far nobody in Prague has surpassed her...

Petrská 25, Prague 1 
Tel. 222 317 425

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Sansho - a place of worship

I guess the Czech Position writers have not dined much in the food capitals of the world like Paris, London, New York etc.  Sansho is one of the very very few restaurants in Prague that could make it in those capitals and compete with the best.  As far as Prague goes, its in a class of its own;  the decor, the skirts of the waitresses etc are an irrelevance to remind you that you are in the place to worship the food, not to be distracted by more worldy matters.



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